Wednesday, May 11, 2016

DIY Wooden Plank Headboard

For awhile now I have hated the headboard we have had on our bed.  It was black wrought iron and was a dust magnet and just didn't look quite right in the room.  When I started doing all these woodworking projects I knew one of the first things I wanted to make was a headboard for our bed.  I made mine for a king size bed and it actually was really easy to do.  The hardest part was mounting it.
Originally I wanted to make the headboard to attach to the frame so that meant I'd add legs to mount the frame to those but then I ended up hanging it directly on the wall.
Too add a little more interest to it I made this one out of 1x3s and 1x4s alternating each one.  First thing first is to make sure you have your width and height right before you ever cut your boards.  I must have measured fifty times to make extra sure I had it right but in the end I'm glad I did.
 I decided which side of the boards would be the front and which would be the back and then laid the boards out in the pattern I wanted them in and one by one drilled pocket holes in the boards in 3 places.  I did 2 on each end of the board and 2 in the center of the boards.  Once all the boards were together I used scrap wood to make "braces" because this big of a headboard wants to bend and of course I wanted it completely flat.  I did 10 braces on the back side and they were about 14 inches long.  I drilled right into the headboard with basic wood screws.  Before you do this make sure your screws aren't too long because you don't want them popping through to the front of your headboard.  Once the braces were added I was happy with how sturdy it was.
Once all the boards were assembled and the braces were holding them sturdy I then added a 1x3 inch board across the top.  To do this I made pocket holes on both sides of the top plank so that I could use pocket screws so nothing showed through on the very top ledge of the bed. This created just a bit of a ledge when I lined up the back of the board for the ledge to the back of the headboard. 
 The next step was staining the headboard.  I used wood conditioner first to help the stain go on more evenly which I would highly recommend.  This stuff is awesome sauce!  I then used Dark Walnut wood stain from Minwax and gave the whole headboard (front and back) 2 coats of it wiping excess off in between coats.  I then used polyurethane to seal the entire headboard once everything was dry.  Again I did front and back.  The poly is also nice because it helps repel dust and it also makes it very easy to dust things off the wood.
  In this photo you can see a little bit of the "lip" the ledge makes.  I also wanted to incorporate some industrial elements to this headboard since I have used some industrial and wood mixes in our master bathroom.  I went to the store and got all plastic pipe and joints to create the right length and then got galvanized clamps to attach them to the ledge.  Because I went with plastic pipe it all needed painted so I used black satin spray paint and let it dry well and then centered the pipe and attached the clamps on both ends and then on either side of the joints.  The pipe obviously serves no purpose but I liked the idea of something industrial added to it.
 Next came the hardest part of this whole project and that was hanging the headboard.  In hindsight we might have had an easier time just adding legs and attaching it the the frame but my husband and I both really liked the look of it mounted so we went after this challenge.  We ended up using the hook and eye bolt method which was actually really easy.  We found our studs and then put the eye bold portion (the one with the hole on the end) into the wall at the height we wanted and then measured the headboard and put the hook portion into the headboard and then lifted the headboard up and slipped the hooks into the eye bolts and it is incredibly sturdy on the wall.  I know I made this sound like such a simple step but it wasn't due to all the measurements and finding the studs etc.  Doing this you want to be extra sure you have the studs marked, you want to make sure you measure over and over again to make sure you are putting the hooks into the right spot on the headboard so they line up with the eye bolts and don't make the headboard way to high or low.  It was a little time consuming but it really worked well once our measurements were done and we attached it to the wall.  The other thing that is really nice about this way of doing it is how easy it is to remove from the wall if we need to.
The last step was adding lights to the headboard.  I wanted to go with more of an industrial looking light so I went and got 2 outdoor jelly jar lights that were meant to be hard wired but my husband and I rewired them so they now have plugs with the little roll switch on the cord so it's very simple to turn them on and off.  Again this step was easy but a bit time consuming with all the measuring to ensure both sides were in the right spot to be even with each other etc.  If you aren't sure how to rewire the lights to make them lights with cords there are tons of tutorials out there so you can google or hit up pinterest.  It's a very simple process and your hardware store should have all that you need.
 I couldn't be happier with how it turned out and already have my next headboard planned.
 
 
If you make one I hope you love yours as much as I love ours!

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Do It Yourself Fresh Baked Pie Sign

So, I have been dying to have a Fresh Baked Pie sign from World Market forever but any store near me is sold out and the online store is sold out as well.  I signed up to be on a waiting list a long time ago and so far there are still no signs available.  Every time I see someone on Instagram posting a photo with that sign I'm so envious.  After recently seeing another gorgeous photo featuring the sign I got to thinking how simple it would be to just make one.  Sure, it might not be the same or as cute but I could still have one that is similar.
I picked up a distressed ivory photo frame in an 8x10 inch size and removed the backing and then used a little E6000 glue to hold the glass into the frame.  You want to make sure your frame has a little lip that the glass sits in so you have somewhere to glue it to.  My frame came from Home Goods and was super cheap and it was great that it was the color I wanted and it was already distressed so no work for me.

I then cut out my "Fresh Baked Pies Baked Daily" with my Silhouette Cameo.  I used just basic black vinyl and then applied it to the front side of the glass. If you are really gutsy you can also paint the wording onto your glass by using a template but I wanted this to be quick and easy so I chose the vinyl route.

When I finished mine and tried to take a photo of it I hated the glare and shadows it was creating as you can see in the above photo.  To remedy this I grabbed my can of Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint and gave the back side of the glass a few coats and that solved all my problems and you can barely tell I frosted it.
   This frosted glass spray paint works great for projects and I'm sure even to make a window more private even though I've not done that.
All in all this cost me about the price of the frame because I had everything else on hand!

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Do It Yourself Industrial Wooden Tray

I am a little into woodworking lately can you tell?  I made a mantle with my dad awhile back and I am unstoppable ever since.  I guess I got bitten by the woodworking bug. 

These little trays are fantastic to make with scrap wood.  Everything here came from my scrap pile and all were furring strips so even if you don't have wood scraps you will only have a couple bucks in a tray like this.  The most expensive thing about this tray was buying a can of black spray paint since I ran out of mine mid spray...grrr!
   To make your own simple tray you will need:
Scraps of wood-I used 1x3 inch furring strips and my tray is 18 inches long and 12 inches wide
Pocket Hole Jig or Wood Glue
Pocket hole screws
Drill
2 pieces of 4 inch plastic pipe in a 1/2 inch circumference.  I use plastic pipe in the underground sprinkler section and it's super cheap
1/2 inch galvanized clamps with screws
Black Spray paint
Saw or precut wood
Phillips head screwdriver 
 Start by deciding on how long and how wide you want your tray.  Once decided and wood is cut use your Pocket Hole Jig to drill a pocket hole on each end of the wood.  Always lay out your boards so you know which will need holes and which is top or bottom etc.  Once your holes are drilled use your pocket hole screws to attach the boards together.  Sand everything well and then flip it over and cut 2 small pieces the same width as your tray and attach those with a couple screws.  Since my boards are 1x3s I used 1 1/4 inch wood screws from the bottom of the tray into the little end pieces.  Whatever you do just be sure the screws won't come through the board.
  Once my tray was assembled I used Espresso wood stain by Minwax and let it dry well.  I then took my 2 4 inch pieces of pipe and sprayed them with the black spray paint.  Let that dry and then find the middle of your end boards and place them on there and wrap your 1/2 inch metal clamps around them and screw them into the board.  I used 1 inch #10 screws for this. When you add your clamps make sure your screw head is large enough to cover the hole in the clamp so it won't slip off. 
 This makes the perfect display tray.
After everything was assembled I used poly acrylic and coated the whole thing.  This helps with repelling dust and I highly recommend it!  I used a semi-gloss polyacrylic coating.  If you want a matte finish be sure to get satin in the polyacrylic.  I usually use satin but they were out when I went to pick up a new can so I just settled for the semi-gloss and it turned out that I liked it but not for all projects.
A very simple tray that doesn't look simple!  A perfect way to use up scrap wood.  I hope you love yours as much as I love mine!

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Chandelier Makeover

 If you follow along with me on Instagram (and you should!) then you know I'm a tiny bit obsessed with Edison Bulbs!  I realize it's a trend that may not stick around long but I really wanted to change my light fixture above our dining room table to one that had Edison bulbs in it but didn't want to make a big investment for it since it is a trend that I may tire of.  So I started brainstorming and thought about just painting the one that is there and removing the glass globes and then adding Edison Bulbs.  It worked beautifully and now I love it.
I was never a real big fan of this chandelier but we bought it in a hurry because our previous chandelier started burning the ceramic little cup holder things (Makes no sense I know but believe me it was bad news).  This one was good enough for awhile but I grew tired of it pretty quickly.  I had been looking for some time to change it out to a prettier one but just didn't want to spend a fortune on a new chandelier.  That is where a little Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint comes in handy!
 To do this you will need:
A chandelier that you don't like anymore
Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint
Chandelier chain in oil rubbed bronze
a handy man to do the electrical or if you are lucky enough to know how to do it go for it!
Edison Bulbs or Vintage Bulbs
 I started out by removing all the glass globes and stuffing the light sockets with paper towels so no paint got into them.
 Spray several coats of Oil Rubbed Bronze on the entire chandelier.  I even sprayed the cord so it would all match.
 I picked up a chandelier chain so that I didn't have to paint our previous one because I knew it may chip and get yucky when we were hanging it and boy am I glad I did this.
 Thread the cord through the chain to prepare to hang it.  Ours always had a bunch of extra cord at the bottom so my husband shortened the cord before we put it back up and it looks so much better now!
 I picked up my bulbs at Marshall's for under 6 bucks and if you have shopped around for them you know that is a great price.  I wanted to have the bulbs that were a little more elongated but they have lots of different shapes you can choose from.  I have heard Amazon has a great selection of them for a reasonable price but I've never looked.
 That is it!  As long as you can remove it and reconnect it safely then you can makeover a chandelier too!  Please if you do change one make sure you turn off the power at the breaker box.  It's not enough to just switch the light off at the switch.
 I just love on these vintage bulbs how the filament shows.  I originally were going to cover the threaded part that holds the bulb but then I decided I kind of liked it so I left it as it is.
It is hard to get a photo of the light when the bulbs are turned on so you may not be able to tell there are lots of little filaments showing and I just love that.
Super cheap way to make over a dining room chandelier and I now love it but won't feel too bad if I decide I no longer want the vintage bulbs and switch it out because I didn't spend much on this transformation.

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Do It Yourself Industrial Towel Bar and Shelf

I have plenty of towel holders in my house so it wasn't like I needed anymore but what I did need was a project.  Home Depot is always my go to place, so much so that the sales staff is always telling me that they are going to put me to work since I'm there so much.

I picked up the wood I needed and the pipe pieces and came home and got to work and knocked the shelf portion out in just about 30 minutes.  If you have a few tools I bet you can make these too!
You will need:
Saw or get wood cut at store
Drill
Sand Paper
1x3x8 board
1 piece of 1/2 inch square dowel rod found in the moulding section at Home Depot
1 1/4 inch wood screws
Wood Glue—I didn’t use this  but you can
Wood Conditioner
Wood Stain
1 12 inch metal nipple (love that name they use)
2 Flanges to fit the size pipe you go with width wise  They have them in several sizes so be sure to put the pipe together before you leave to make sure you have a good fit.  I used 1/2 inch for all of my pieces
2 PVC pipe angles or curved pieces as you’ll see below.  Not sure there exact name
2 PVC pipe risers or "connectors" that are threaded on both ends to attach the curved piece to the flange
Black Spray Paint
 
Start by cutting your boards to the size you’d like your shelf.  I did mine 16 inches wide so you will cut 2 pieces of the 1x3 board into the size you need and then cut your square dowel to size.
 Sand all the boards before putting them together
You are basically going to lay one board flat on a table and then but the other board in a standing position right behind that board and then screw the two boards together from the back.  I didn’t use wood glue but you could on this step but I’d be sure to use nails or screws after the wood glue if you are going to sit things on the shelf that might have some weight to them. 
I know these photos aren't the best but it was hard to get them at the right angle
 Once the boards are attached together you will then place your square dowel right at the edge of the ledge portion of your shelf and flip it over and screw it in from the bottom or again you can use wood glue and nails if need be.
I gave mine a quick sanding again after I got them put together and then I used wood conditioner to ensure an even staining job.  This stuff will make you a believer and a little goes a long way so unless you spill the whole can (I’m not saying this happened to me wink wink) then it will last you a good long time.  Once that has been wiped off apply the stain color of your choice or you could even paint them.

Seal them with polyurethane before attaching the pipe towel holder portion
 
I started my pipe portion in the store to make sure they all fit together well.  I did the plastic pieces because it was much cheaper and I knew they'd be spray painted anyway and no one would ever know so why spend the money on the metal when it wasn't necessary.  I found that my curved piece didn't seat well to the nipple or bar so I added just a little E6000 glue around the rim of the pipe so it would grip well and it worked perfectly.

I chose to use black semi-gloss spray paint but you could use whatever color or finish you like.  I think Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint would be beautiful! I gave them a good couple coats and then flipped them over and did the underside

Let them dry completely and then flip your shelf upside down and attach them to the bottom of your shelf with wood screws making sure you use screws that won't break through your shelf portion.  I also counter sunk all my screws so they didn't stick out anywhere.  If you don't have a countersink tool you can use a slightly larger drill bit than the original hole and just drill into the hole a very little bit and then when you screw them together the screws will sink just slightly so they aren't sticking out.
 
Once everything is put together you can attach it to the wall.  I ended up drilling right through the face of the back board in 2 places so I would hit 2 studs.  If you can't hit studs be sure to buy heavy duty dry wall anchors so they won't wiggle.  Once you've screwed them to the wall you can use stained wood putty to match the color of your stain to fill the holes.  You will need to countersink the screws again so you have a little divet to fill in with the putty.
I couldn't be happier.  After I made the first one we all liked it so much I ended up making a few more for our other bathrooms.  It is so nice to have a little extra space to put some things that we use daily.  In our half bath I used the shelf to add some home decor items to instead of items we use everyday.  It makes a great spot for something small to add a little pop of color in the room.

I know you will love these if you make them!



 I tried to get a photo so you can see the flanges attached to the bottom.  One thing to mention is to make sure your screw heads are big enough to not slip through the holes of the flanges.  I always use #8 or #10 size screws.

Enjoy!

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