Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Do It Yourself Framed Shiplap

If you follow me on Instagram you know I've been busy putting up shiplap in our half bath and on another wall at the bottom of our steps.  I am in love with it and could just keep going all through the house but figure I better stop and get used to what I've done so far and then decide if I want to add more.  A solution to give me more shiplap was to frame some!  I had a wall that needed updated artwork on it in my dining room so I made a frame and framed the shiplap and added a magnolia wreath.  Easy as pie!
I thought I was in love with the walls I did but now I'm so in love with the framed shiplap that I may have to do more of these.
 Because I was going to be laying my frame on top of the shiplap I taped off the ends so I could stain the ends to match the stained wood so it all looked like one piece from the side.  I cut the boards at a 4 inch width and then used a paint color I had custom done to be sort of an off white.  Any color would work of course.
 Once I was done with the paint I took the tape off and stained all the ends of the boards just in case they showed from the side when the shiplap was hung.
 I drilled 2 pocket holes on each end of 2 boards and screwed the frame together.  This ensures it holds together really well but you could use nails and wood glue too. I just did square cuts and not mitered corners but you could do that instead.  I then used pre-stain to coat the wood frame and then stained it in Minwax Espresso which is my favorite stain color.  Once that was dry I added the corner braces.
 To frame the shiplap I flipped the frame over so the right side was against the ground and then lined up my shiplap and used a staple gun on either end to attach it to the frame.  I should have taken a photo of this step but got so excited I forgot.  I was going to add braces to the back of the shiplap to make sure they stayed nice and supported but once it was hung on the wall there was no need to do that.
 I added sawtooth hangers to either end of the frame and used anchors to hang the frame since it wasn't on a stud.  This worked great and it's very sturdy on the wall now.
 To put the wreath on the shiplap I drilled a tiny hole where I wanted the top to go and then ran floral wire through it and through the slat of the shiplap above the hole and then wrapped the wire around the wreath and pulled it as tight as I could on the back side of the frame and it worked perfectly.  Personally my favorite thing about this framed shiplap is the magnolia wreath!
 This was such a fun project to work on and I can't wait to do more of them!  I'm actually thinking about adding them to my online shop because they are so fun and you get the shiplap look without the commitment of installing it on your walls!

Thursday, June 2, 2016

DIY Numbered Tiles

I think the Target Dollar Spot is my all time favorite spot to shop.  It's like I walk in those doors and there are big spot lights over it just calling me to the mother ship!  You can just find such great things in that little area of heaven!  I picked up a bunch of these little wooden plank plaques that were part of the nautical collection knowing I'd have no real use for them being blue and pine but I did know I'd be using them for something fun and this project couldn't have made me happier!
This is the little plaque I purchased from the dollar spot.  Originally it had a white rope threaded through the holes at the top but I knew I'd be changing that to basic twine so I cut that off before I painted them. 
I gave my three plaques a few coats of white spray paint but you could easily use a chalk paint or any brush on paint just as easily.
 I coated mine pretty well but wasn't terribly worried if I missed a spot because I knew I was going to sand them and then add dark stain to antique them so it wasn't a big deal if they weren't perfect.
 I picked my numbers up at Michael's for $1.49 each and even used a coupon so that made them a bit cheaper.
 I gave the numbers a few coats of spray paint making sure to cover each side and then let them dry well.
Please ignore the terrible lighting in this photo but as you can see I have sanded the bright white paint down quite a bit and then added Espresso wood stain lightly over the whole thing trying to get into the creases of the slats and around the edges.  Once that was dry I lightly sanded it off so it wasn't as dark and then used furniture wax to coat the number and the board.  It gives it such a nice silky smooth finish when it's waxed.  I then used E6000 adhesive on my number and attached it to the board.  I let this dry for awhile before hanging them.
 To hang them I used just basic twine and threaded it through the holes and tied knots off on the front of the boards to hold it in place.  The important thing if you are doing more than one of these is to make sure each piece of twine is the same size for each board!  It makes it look pretty weird if one board has a ton of twine and another board has a little twine so measuring is your friend here!  I used just basic nails but may switch to a more decorative nail to hang them.  I haven't decided.  As you can see I also made sure to rub the sides of the boards with some of the dark stain as well so it all matched.
 You really can't get much easier than this little project and could do all sorts of different things with these boards.

I hope you will make something fun with these little plaques too!

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

DIY Wooden Plank Headboard

For awhile now I have hated the headboard we have had on our bed.  It was black wrought iron and was a dust magnet and just didn't look quite right in the room.  When I started doing all these woodworking projects I knew one of the first things I wanted to make was a headboard for our bed.  I made mine for a king size bed and it actually was really easy to do.  The hardest part was mounting it.
Originally I wanted to make the headboard to attach to the frame so that meant I'd add legs to mount the frame to those but then I ended up hanging it directly on the wall.
Too add a little more interest to it I made this one out of 1x3s and 1x4s alternating each one.  First thing first is to make sure you have your width and height right before you ever cut your boards.  I must have measured fifty times to make extra sure I had it right but in the end I'm glad I did.
 I decided which side of the boards would be the front and which would be the back and then laid the boards out in the pattern I wanted them in and one by one drilled pocket holes in the boards in 3 places.  I did 2 on each end of the board and 2 in the center of the boards.  Once all the boards were together I used scrap wood to make "braces" because this big of a headboard wants to bend and of course I wanted it completely flat.  I did 10 braces on the back side and they were about 14 inches long.  I drilled right into the headboard with basic wood screws.  Before you do this make sure your screws aren't too long because you don't want them popping through to the front of your headboard.  Once the braces were added I was happy with how sturdy it was.
Once all the boards were assembled and the braces were holding them sturdy I then added a 1x3 inch board across the top.  To do this I made pocket holes on both sides of the top plank so that I could use pocket screws so nothing showed through on the very top ledge of the bed. This created just a bit of a ledge when I lined up the back of the board for the ledge to the back of the headboard. 
 The next step was staining the headboard.  I used wood conditioner first to help the stain go on more evenly which I would highly recommend.  This stuff is awesome sauce!  I then used Dark Walnut wood stain from Minwax and gave the whole headboard (front and back) 2 coats of it wiping excess off in between coats.  I then used polyurethane to seal the entire headboard once everything was dry.  Again I did front and back.  The poly is also nice because it helps repel dust and it also makes it very easy to dust things off the wood.
  In this photo you can see a little bit of the "lip" the ledge makes.  I also wanted to incorporate some industrial elements to this headboard since I have used some industrial and wood mixes in our master bathroom.  I went to the store and got all plastic pipe and joints to create the right length and then got galvanized clamps to attach them to the ledge.  Because I went with plastic pipe it all needed painted so I used black satin spray paint and let it dry well and then centered the pipe and attached the clamps on both ends and then on either side of the joints.  The pipe obviously serves no purpose but I liked the idea of something industrial added to it.
 Next came the hardest part of this whole project and that was hanging the headboard.  In hindsight we might have had an easier time just adding legs and attaching it the the frame but my husband and I both really liked the look of it mounted so we went after this challenge.  We ended up using the hook and eye bolt method which was actually really easy.  We found our studs and then put the eye bold portion (the one with the hole on the end) into the wall at the height we wanted and then measured the headboard and put the hook portion into the headboard and then lifted the headboard up and slipped the hooks into the eye bolts and it is incredibly sturdy on the wall.  I know I made this sound like such a simple step but it wasn't due to all the measurements and finding the studs etc.  Doing this you want to be extra sure you have the studs marked, you want to make sure you measure over and over again to make sure you are putting the hooks into the right spot on the headboard so they line up with the eye bolts and don't make the headboard way to high or low.  It was a little time consuming but it really worked well once our measurements were done and we attached it to the wall.  The other thing that is really nice about this way of doing it is how easy it is to remove from the wall if we need to.
The last step was adding lights to the headboard.  I wanted to go with more of an industrial looking light so I went and got 2 outdoor jelly jar lights that were meant to be hard wired but my husband and I rewired them so they now have plugs with the little roll switch on the cord so it's very simple to turn them on and off.  Again this step was easy but a bit time consuming with all the measuring to ensure both sides were in the right spot to be even with each other etc.  If you aren't sure how to rewire the lights to make them lights with cords there are tons of tutorials out there so you can google or hit up pinterest.  It's a very simple process and your hardware store should have all that you need.
 I couldn't be happier with how it turned out and already have my next headboard planned.
If you make one I hope you love yours as much as I love ours!

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Do It Yourself Fresh Baked Pie Sign

So, I have been dying to have a Fresh Baked Pie sign from World Market forever but any store near me is sold out and the online store is sold out as well.  I signed up to be on a waiting list a long time ago and so far there are still no signs available.  Every time I see someone on Instagram posting a photo with that sign I'm so envious.  After recently seeing another gorgeous photo featuring the sign I got to thinking how simple it would be to just make one.  Sure, it might not be the same or as cute but I could still have one that is similar.
I picked up a distressed ivory photo frame in an 8x10 inch size and removed the backing and then used a little E6000 glue to hold the glass into the frame.  You want to make sure your frame has a little lip that the glass sits in so you have somewhere to glue it to.  My frame came from Home Goods and was super cheap and it was great that it was the color I wanted and it was already distressed so no work for me.

I then cut out my "Fresh Baked Pies Baked Daily" with my Silhouette Cameo.  I used just basic black vinyl and then applied it to the front side of the glass. If you are really gutsy you can also paint the wording onto your glass by using a template but I wanted this to be quick and easy so I chose the vinyl route.

When I finished mine and tried to take a photo of it I hated the glare and shadows it was creating as you can see in the above photo.  To remedy this I grabbed my can of Rust-Oleum Frosted Glass Spray Paint and gave the back side of the glass a few coats and that solved all my problems and you can barely tell I frosted it.
   This frosted glass spray paint works great for projects and I'm sure even to make a window more private even though I've not done that.
All in all this cost me about the price of the frame because I had everything else on hand!

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Do It Yourself Industrial Wooden Tray

I am a little into woodworking lately can you tell?  I made a mantle with my dad awhile back and I am unstoppable ever since.  I guess I got bitten by the woodworking bug. 

These little trays are fantastic to make with scrap wood.  Everything here came from my scrap pile and all were furring strips so even if you don't have wood scraps you will only have a couple bucks in a tray like this.  The most expensive thing about this tray was buying a can of black spray paint since I ran out of mine mid spray...grrr!
   To make your own simple tray you will need:
Scraps of wood-I used 1x3 inch furring strips and my tray is 18 inches long and 12 inches wide
Pocket Hole Jig or Wood Glue
Pocket hole screws
2 pieces of 4 inch plastic pipe in a 1/2 inch circumference.  I use plastic pipe in the underground sprinkler section and it's super cheap
1/2 inch galvanized clamps with screws
Black Spray paint
Saw or precut wood
Phillips head screwdriver 
 Start by deciding on how long and how wide you want your tray.  Once decided and wood is cut use your Pocket Hole Jig to drill a pocket hole on each end of the wood.  Always lay out your boards so you know which will need holes and which is top or bottom etc.  Once your holes are drilled use your pocket hole screws to attach the boards together.  Sand everything well and then flip it over and cut 2 small pieces the same width as your tray and attach those with a couple screws.  Since my boards are 1x3s I used 1 1/4 inch wood screws from the bottom of the tray into the little end pieces.  Whatever you do just be sure the screws won't come through the board.
  Once my tray was assembled I used Espresso wood stain by Minwax and let it dry well.  I then took my 2 4 inch pieces of pipe and sprayed them with the black spray paint.  Let that dry and then find the middle of your end boards and place them on there and wrap your 1/2 inch metal clamps around them and screw them into the board.  I used 1 inch #10 screws for this. When you add your clamps make sure your screw head is large enough to cover the hole in the clamp so it won't slip off. 
 This makes the perfect display tray.
After everything was assembled I used poly acrylic and coated the whole thing.  This helps with repelling dust and I highly recommend it!  I used a semi-gloss polyacrylic coating.  If you want a matte finish be sure to get satin in the polyacrylic.  I usually use satin but they were out when I went to pick up a new can so I just settled for the semi-gloss and it turned out that I liked it but not for all projects.
A very simple tray that doesn't look simple!  A perfect way to use up scrap wood.  I hope you love yours as much as I love mine!

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Chandelier Makeover

 If you follow along with me on Instagram (and you should!) then you know I'm a tiny bit obsessed with Edison Bulbs!  I realize it's a trend that may not stick around long but I really wanted to change my light fixture above our dining room table to one that had Edison bulbs in it but didn't want to make a big investment for it since it is a trend that I may tire of.  So I started brainstorming and thought about just painting the one that is there and removing the glass globes and then adding Edison Bulbs.  It worked beautifully and now I love it.
I was never a real big fan of this chandelier but we bought it in a hurry because our previous chandelier started burning the ceramic little cup holder things (Makes no sense I know but believe me it was bad news).  This one was good enough for awhile but I grew tired of it pretty quickly.  I had been looking for some time to change it out to a prettier one but just didn't want to spend a fortune on a new chandelier.  That is where a little Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint comes in handy!
 To do this you will need:
A chandelier that you don't like anymore
Oil Rubbed Bronze spray paint
Chandelier chain in oil rubbed bronze
a handy man to do the electrical or if you are lucky enough to know how to do it go for it!
Edison Bulbs or Vintage Bulbs
 I started out by removing all the glass globes and stuffing the light sockets with paper towels so no paint got into them.
 Spray several coats of Oil Rubbed Bronze on the entire chandelier.  I even sprayed the cord so it would all match.
 I picked up a chandelier chain so that I didn't have to paint our previous one because I knew it may chip and get yucky when we were hanging it and boy am I glad I did this.
 Thread the cord through the chain to prepare to hang it.  Ours always had a bunch of extra cord at the bottom so my husband shortened the cord before we put it back up and it looks so much better now!
 I picked up my bulbs at Marshall's for under 6 bucks and if you have shopped around for them you know that is a great price.  I wanted to have the bulbs that were a little more elongated but they have lots of different shapes you can choose from.  I have heard Amazon has a great selection of them for a reasonable price but I've never looked.
 That is it!  As long as you can remove it and reconnect it safely then you can makeover a chandelier too!  Please if you do change one make sure you turn off the power at the breaker box.  It's not enough to just switch the light off at the switch.
 I just love on these vintage bulbs how the filament shows.  I originally were going to cover the threaded part that holds the bulb but then I decided I kind of liked it so I left it as it is.
It is hard to get a photo of the light when the bulbs are turned on so you may not be able to tell there are lots of little filaments showing and I just love that.
Super cheap way to make over a dining room chandelier and I now love it but won't feel too bad if I decide I no longer want the vintage bulbs and switch it out because I didn't spend much on this transformation.


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